While rappelling a mountain wall, Mr Huserka’s rope snapped and he fell into an ice crevasse, his partner said in an emotional Facebook update posted after he returned alone.

He then “hit an angled surface after an 8m drop, then continued down a labyrinth into the depths of the glacier”.

In the Facebook post, Mr Holecek recalled hearing his partner’s cries for help and desperately trying to save him.

“I rappelled down to him and stayed with him for four hours until his light faded,” Mr Holecek said.

After freeing him from the ice, Mr Holecek realised his partner was paralysed.

“His star was fading as he lay in my arms,” he said.

The Slovak climbers’ association, SHS James, said adverse weather in Nepal had prevented rescue action.

“Following a phone call with Marek Holecek and his status published yesterday, and given the weather conditions under Langtang Lirung, the family and friends will have to cope with the fact that Ondrej is not with us any more,” it said in a social media post.