Coco Rocha, Christian Siriano and Tiffany Haddish
Maria Rubtsova/BFA.com
After eight days of shows in the City of Light, Paris Fashion Week has come to a close.
Lithuanian designer Juozas Statkevičius brought the wow factor with his collection of well-tailored and magnifying pieces, as both Statkevičius and designer Tony Ward took inspiration from cinema history this season. Wild Rose & Sparrow held a ballet-core-themed show at the Théâtre du Gymnase Marie Bell; with risqué silhouettes, the brand’s co-founder Ariana Dancu wanted to create a collection inspired by female confidence and self-expression.
Christian Siriano’s leather looks are to-die-for after coming off the New York Fashion Week runway, Chloé bohemian inspired collection is oh-so-dreamy, and Casablanca’s luxury street style collection inspired by countercultural Los Angeles is original. And let’s not lose sight of Kilian Paris’ newest fragrance launch of “Old Fashioned,” with Emily in Paris’ Lucien Laviscount as its face — the smoothest cocktail-esque perfume you’ll ever smell. Here are some of the biggest highlights from the week.
Christian Siriano unveiled his SS25 collection during New York Fashion Week in early September, but transported it to Paris and unveiled it to Europe, at his new home in the heart of the city. The collection dives into a fantasy world of fairytales with themes of dark and light. But what’s most intriguing about the collection is that Siriano has glammed up vegan leather fitting for the red carpet. “The collection was inspired by a mythical dark fairyland, so I created what I call pieces that are like fancy fairy-like creatures, but in the most elegant romantic way that I could,” he explained to The Hollywood Reporter. “Leather often looks hard and rigid, and I wanted to show it very soft. The leather pieces are also embroidered with laser cuts, which brings movement and which leather doesn’t always have.”
Siriano worked with Circ, a company made up of scientists who mix chemistry and fashion to achieve circularity. Two of the runway looks included Circ Lyocell material made from 40 percent recycled fabric waste taken from the supply chain. “The collection starts with dark and strong, with vegan leather pieces, and then ends in an ethereal soft fairy-like dream world,” said Siriano. Opposite the darker pieces you’ll find more shapely silhouettes, as well as sheer diaphanous pieces that are soft. Speaking on his new apartment in Paris, the designer said, “I always wanted an apartment in Paris my whole life, so I said I’m going to try and do it and see how it goes. And now I know it can also be a showroom.”
Coco Rocha, Christian Siriano and Tiffany Haddish
Maria Rubtsova/BFA.com
Tony Ward’s new collection is perfect for a woman going to a sophisticated lunch or a glamorous evening party, and you can almost feel Marlene Dietrich, Jayne Mansfield or Dorothy Dandridge ogling at many of his silhouettes. Looks include Ward’s quintessential bold shapes, fun short party dresses, feathers, beading, sequins and cut-outs, which add a little shape to the body, with sea-life accents on silhouettes. The collection was shot at the castle of an American-Lebanese man living in Lebanon, a home that gives very Los Angeles vibes.
The 48-piece collection is mainly a black-and-white color palette with pops of red — a trend on the SS25 runway. The black and white with gray pieces in the collection are inspired by a reminiscence of cinematic history. You can see the Nordic hints with inspiration of Lithuanian culture, and from the first look that entered the runway to the last, Statkevičius’s passion is clear. It’s a collection, as the notes point out, that’s meant to be worn from morning to night, in every season, and year after year. “It’s for women who like to express different facets of their personality. Sometimes they’re fragile and romantic, sometimes serious, sometimes fun and free, sometimes cold and inaccessible, sometimes sexy and provocative, but always elegant, remarkable and desirable,” Statkevičius explained in collection notes.
Statkevičius has been designing fashion pieces and theater costumes since 1988. He has created more than 100 costumes for performances, which is understandable after viewing the collection. There’s something very costume-y about the looks, which gives this fashion collection an extra flair.
Under heavy gray skies, Chloé unveiled the new collection at the Tennis Club de Paris. The likes of Sienna Miller, Taylor Hill, Diane Kruger, Juliette Lewis, Karlie Kloss and Pat Cleveland sat front row to watch Chemena Kamali unveil her second runway collection for the House. The collection is young and it’s fun, it’s feminine and bohemian — or in the words of Kamali: It’s light, weightless, sensual and joyful.
As guests arrived it felt like some sort of exotic getaway. And because of the bright lights, one onlooker commented, “There’s more sun in here than outside.” “I wanted to capture that longing for summer and the way summer makes you feel — taking the essence of Chloé’s roots as a starting point, building new foundations and capturing that fantasy moment of the summer months when you reconnect with yourself. When you pause, escape, explore, discover and recharge,” explained the creative director in collection notes. To capture this, she used sun faded fabrics that are rinsed and faded. Other looks are done in lace guipures with ribbed cotton jersey. As models walked the runway, they seemed to float and glide, a hint of what wearers of this collection can expect with pieces in Habotai silks and silk charmeuses. And of course, Chloé isn’t Chloé without accessories, like the crocheted and raffia bracelet bags, and charms with broken shells.
Inside the Chloé show
Chloé
Kilian Hennessy, the founder of Kilian Paris, welcomed Lucien Laviscount, Kyle MacLachlan, Tiffany Haddish, Kate Walsh, Cole Sprouse, Paul Forman and many others to celebrate the launch of Old Fashioned, which Laviscount is the face of. The fragrance is delicate but makes a statement with its whiskey tone and notes of wheat absolute, cedarwood hyper-concentrated essence and Tolu Balm.
The event was held at Maison Revka on the second Monday of PFW. The idea of the party mirrored the campaign video directed by Jean-Claude Thibaut, of a man entering a Scottish castle and going to different rooms to access this sought-after perfume. Each room of the party was based on this idea and had its own scene-like a barber station where men could get a trim at the party, a room to get measured for a new bespoke suit while playing pool, a room with a DJ booth and sets by Jeune Pouce and Siobhan Bell, a room with a bar and the outdoor patio for cigars. Guests stayed late into the night enjoying the ambience and trying to soak in as much as possible of the last two days of the week.
Normally Casablanca holds its shows outside of the goings-on of the center of Paris, but not this season. To tell a sartorial story of underground and countercultural Los Angeles, creative director Charaf Tajer decided to have things more central. Themed “Can’t Get Enough,” the collection is inspired by Tajer’s travels to L.A., honoring the city’s iconography, emblems and unique edginess. “I have always been a massive fan of L.A. culture since I was 14 years old, and I’ve always felt there was a parallel between Mexican and Moroccan cultures,” he told The Hollywood Reporter.
Because the city has multiple personalities across its communities and many-a-stereotype, Tajer wanted to portray these angles in the collection. Take, for instance, the Mexican-American Los Angelenos Lowrider culture: As guests entered the show space, four cars from the ’80s, candy-painted with Mexican-American iconography, were front and center. Growing up in a Moroccan-French working-class family, Tajer felt a connection to Mexican-American culture and wanted to honor this.
“The subcultures that I love in L.A. cross and complement each other, this what makes L.A. — not just the glossy Hollywood side of L.A. The subcultures in L.A. often become mainstream in the rest of the world and this catalyzes ideas like the iPhone for example, psychedelics, gangster rap, skateboarding and movies. California is a real generator of subcultures, which becomes a culture in the rest of the world,” he explained. In the collection there are strong references to Venice Beach and SoCal surf and skate culture with airbushed graphics and sunbleached ombrés on silhouettes. Tailoring for the sporty looks are inspired by L.A. Lakers coach Pat Riley and the style of musician Bootsy Collins. The collection is purposeful, free, young, and oh-so southern California.
Liza Koshy at the Casablanca show
Nikita Chorny
The energy of the Messika show was kinesthetic to say the least. As guests arrived in what seemed like an endless and vast open space, there were photos being taken at the photo call, canapes and champagne being had, and conversations galore as guests headed to their seats that surrounded a large panoramic screen cube in anticipation for what Valérie Messika — the brand’s founder and artistic director — had cooked up this season for the high jewelry show. Sitting front row were Cardi B, Ashley Graham, Natalia Vodianova, Isabelle Adjani, Lucien Laviscount, Future, Nina Dobrev, Cole Sprouse, Heidi Klum and many more.
The collection is made up of 125 pieces, with inspiration taken from the Midnight Sun collection. Walking in the show were Paris Jackson, Taylor Hill and Cindy Bruna, showcasing lip jewelry, head accent pieces, body belts for men (and women), headpieces, nail jewels accompany the typical pieces of rings, necklaces and earrings. “This show goes beyond jewelry; it embodies the essence of our Maison. It is an exceptional moment powered by music and fashion. It reflects our energy and singularity, which drive us to continuously create our high jewelry pieces as true fashion statements,” Messika said in the collection statement. A highlight is the unveiling of the Supernature necklace and the Fragments of Time necklace. The latter, comprised of 129 carats and 232 stones, closed the show, worn by model Eva Herzigova.
There were two celebrations for Mackage on Thursday night — one celebrating the luxury brand’s anniversary and one showcasing its autumn-winter 2024 collection. Attending were Coco Rocha, Kate Walsh, Jessica Wang, Olivia Palermo, Johannes Huebl, Gaia Repossi and more. Alexander Skarsgard is one of the faces of the AW24 collection, which focuses on the idea of exploration and reinvention. Diving deep into craftsmanship quality, the collection features fashion-forward designs with pieces that will last and flow well into another season; embroidery is found on different silhouettes as well as metallics. “Representing a brand that stands for quality, innovation and timeless style is an honor, and I am excited to be a part of their journey once again. I look forward to showcasing the incredible designs that Mackage has brought to life this season,” Skarsgard said in collection notes.
The dinner with Stella Maxwell took place at Anahi, in the Marais. “Bringing together a room full of incredible talent and visionaries is the perfect way to honor Mackage’s journey, and I am so proud to be part of this milestone moment,” Maxwell said of the night.
Held on the outskirts of Paris, it was a bit of a trek to get to the Issey Miyake runway show, which was surrounded by picturesque nature in the Château de Vincennes area of the city. Held in a building that resembled a house with tall and large windows, sounds of nature played on audio as guests arrived.
The opening looks were done in washi, a traditional Japanese paper. Made of hemp fibers, it carries with it Japan’s earliest papermaking process that goes back one thousand years. But while washi was made for paper, it was also made for clothing. Bringing this tradition to life, the brand’s creative director Satoshi Kondo and his design team partnered with craftspeople at the Awagami Factory in Japan to create sartorial pieces. Kondo and his team wanted to take the idea that from nature’s abundance you get paper, which is lightweight and soft; so, the collection is lightweight and soft, where light can easily pass through. The idea of the collection is that as the process of washi is poetic, paper is poetic always around us, though we must perceive it.
The Italian Embassy was the setting of the Roger Vivier collection unveiling, specifically in the Parisian Hotel de la Rochefoucauld-Dudeauville. Eva Green, Nicola Peltz Beckham and other celebrities turned up to experience the new collection. Themed Jardin à la Vivier, the collection is all about the indoors and exuberant traditions of French formal gardens. As guests walked down the red carpet and into the Embassy, they were ushered into a room of vibrant colors and a display of the brand’s iconic buckle. The buckle took inspiration from the shoes of marquises in French aristocratic courts, and Mr. Vivier modernized it.
The “I Love Vivier” cut-out pumps are in the collection, in laser-cut leather flats. The “Marlene” shoe that was originally created in 1955 and loved by Marlene Dietrich, is done as an embellished mule and as a sporty sandal. The “Viv’Up” sneaker, made of padded lambskin Nappa in yellow, mauve and pale pink, allows for women to be freer and comfortable, thanks to the soft-thick sole. And the bag of highlight this season is the Jewel bag, of which the brand is calling “the perfect combination of basketry and maroquinerie.”
Eva Green at the Roger Vivier event
Kevin Tachman for Roger Vivier
Palais du Tokyo is a normal venue for Elie Saab shows, but this season the brand turned this up a notch with live foliage spread throughout the runway space. Fitting in with the theme of “The Allure of the Wild,” the collection points to Africa and a day in the savannah. Known for centering collections on exotic destinations, this collection allows one to escape with earthy tones, laced tulle, crocheted touches and accessories like oversized cabana bags and horn-effect sunglasses. Elie Saab is no stranger to Hollywood, and actresses Kelly Rutherford and Nina Dobrev sat front row.
Jessica Alba, Ashley Park, Mila Kunis, Eva Longoria, and Liza Koshy are all fans of Idyl and their lab grown diamonds, and have all collaborated with the brand to create one-of-a-kind pieces. Over the weekend, the Antwerp based brand came to Paris to share its new collaboration with influencer Tamara Kalinic. The pharmacist turned fashion icon, who is originally from Bosnia and Herzegovina has been on Grazia and Cosmopolitan covers. Kalinic’s collection includes three different earring shapes named after her favorite cities: Paris, Venezia and Capri. “The three-city influence is all Tamara. Venice because she likes to go there for the film festival, Capri was where she was proposed to, and Paris is one of her favorite cities,” said Ornella Siso.
Idyl was started by siblings Ornella and Ori Siso, and Kevin Lewy, with the idea to transform the diamond industry. “We want to find that balance between having the quality that you get from high-end brands, but without all the stuffiness, high price point and the barriers around it. There are a lot of accessible brands but you don’t get the quality, but there are a lot of quality brands where you don’t get the accessibility. We just want to find that sweet spot,” said Ornella.
Instead of doing a runway show, Hedi Slimane opted for a collection video as the brand paid tribute to French singer Françoise Hardy, who died in June. Filled with heavy 1960s trends of bangs, babydoll dresses and thick eyeliner, it’s a little un-Hedi like. Known for his ’70s skinny silhouettes, this collection is unique to what the designer usually creates, with feminine with boarding school pleats done in light summer cashmere, short summer coats made of suede or glazed lambskin, and pencil skirts and mini A-line skirts. Other summer dresses are done in broderie Anglaise, while the evening dresses are long and architecturally draped in black silk faille. The brand also unveiled a new fragrance by Slimane called, “Un ÉtÉ Français.” “It’s a nostalgic tribute to the last six summers spent in Saint Tropez, but also to teenage memories of the beaches of the Cóte D’Azur, with first loves, gold and sunburnt skin beneath a veil of ambered cream,” Slimane explained in notes.
It wasn’t just Kilian Paris closing out the week, but also Italian shoe brand Golden Goose where its We Will Always Be Those Kids event took place. Attending were Joan Smalls, Lucky Blue Smith, Cole Sprouse and Kid Cudi; theater and fashion were combined when a young dreamer growing up shared a resonating message on stage: no matter how old you are, you always remain one of “those kids” as long as you keep on dreaming.
The SS25 Journey Collection was revealed, along with the Forty2 sneaker. Reminiscent of ’90s style, it’s for modern dreamers. The shoe is inspired by the golden age of basketball, made by Golden Goose artisans with a double box-like sole with a deconstructed, three-colored polyurethane structure. The show and reveal was held at the Élysée Montmartre, the birthplace of can-can where David Bowie and Daft Punk have performed. Its vibe and symbol of Parisian culture was the perfect setting for the Venetian brand to host such an event.
