So you’ve decided to buy yourself a real adult watch — Dad would be proud! But which watch to wish for? The answer depends entirely on how you intend to use it. Are you going to be closing deals in the boardroom or leading a raid upriver on a jungle base? For most of us, the answer lies somewhere in between such extremes of elitism and adventurism, so I spoke with expert watch collectors and reviewers about the best watches for men for every need and style.
As icons go, it’s hard to beat the watch so good they took it to the moon. “Although there are numerous variations, the Speedmaster Professional is the model certified by NASA for manned space flight,” says Brett Nicholas, reviewer at Ben’s Watch Club. “The Omega is also not only the watch that has been to the moon the most times, it was the first timepiece on the lunar surface, worn by Buzz Aldrin.” He notes that it also stood up to raw cosmic radiation, being worn on the outside of the astronaut suit.
“It was first introduced in 1957 to meet the needs of professional race car drivers, but it soon gained fame as the first watch worn on the moon during the Apollo 11 mission,” confirms Eugene Tutukinov, CEO of Atlanta-based retailer SwissWatchExpo. “The Moonwatch is considered the quintessential Speedmaster model.”
Nicholas agrees, calling the Speedmaster Professional a painstakingly crafted classic with dependable fortitude underpinning a timeless design. “Omega also offers you a choice of crystal material and type of case back (solid vs. see-through),” he says.
From the racetrack to the rocket pad, the Speedmaster Professional is recognized and admired for its precision and durability. It sure is nice to look at, too. If you find it too bulky, Nicholas recommends you check out the smaller case on the 3511 Date model. It’s not NASA-certified for spaceflight, but the rest of us should do fine.
Get it here: Omega Speedmaster Professional
Competition was fierce in this category, as most of our experts each picked a different winner from the wealth of steel watches. But Tutukinov makes the case for this model as the tide change that started it all. “The Royal Oak was first designed by the legendary watchmaker Gerald Genta in 1972. It was considered revolutionary at the time due to its distinctive design and the use of stainless steel, which was not commonly used in luxury watches,” he says. “It’s widely credited for creating the genre and for disrupting the industry that was reeling from the quartz crisis.”
With our watch selected, it’s time to pick a reference. Rustin Yasavolian, CEO at Masina Diamonds, argues for 15400ST as the preferred edition to showcase Genta’s awesome stature. “I personally like the 15400ST because of its thinner hour markers,” he says. “With its sharp angles and perfectly matte polished case, it’s hard not to love Gerald Genta’s design.” And there are plenty of reasons to do so.
The Orient Bambino is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship. Its classic, simple design fits most aesthetic needs, and it carries on the Orient-quality build at a decent price, unlike the many five-figure entries on this list, sitting firmly in the affordable category without feeling cheap.
“The great thing about the Bambino,” says Nicholas, “is that it’s so readily available, relatively affordable and comes in so many agreeable dial configurations, strap options and choice of date vs. no-date function. The movements are excellent quality and the aesthetic can range from casual to formal. In short, there is definitely a Bambino for everyone.”
A refreshing change-up from the precious metals and steel bands that comprise the bulk of this list, the Bambino 4 is pricey enough to act as a special gift but affordable enough that you won’t hesitate to wear it in most circumstances.
Get it here: Orient Bambino 4
Really, most watches are leather strap watches if you want them to be, but I still salute the Cartier Tank, which offers a steel band but is primarily sold with lush, gorgeous leather in any color you like. Although the 1918 design was inspired by the World War I Renault tank, it’s the thinnest watch on this list, as well as being one of the rare unisex timepieces in the luxury space. Numerous variations of the Tank exist, and many favor the Tank Louis, but for your first Cartier, we think this model is your must-try.
“The Cartier Tank is a classic watch that has been a symbol of luxury and elegance for over 100 years,” says Tutukinov. “The watch was designed to be a departure from the traditional round watch shape and was intended to be both practical and stylish.”
This is the gentleman’s lifetime buy, to be worn in any and all circumstances that won’t include a lot of water, dirt, sweat or shock.
Get it here: Cartier Tank Must, Large
“Longines has been batting a thousand the past few years,” Nicholas says, “as every new piece has been timelessly designed and crafted with longevity, beauty and legibility in mind. The Spirit Zulu Time offers a chronometer-grade automatic GMT movement with a rotating bezel and a gorgeous dial layout.”
Aesthetically, Nicholas is also a fan of the symmetrical date placement and the customizability of the Spirit Zulu Time’s numerous dial colors. This could be an endgame time piece for world travelers looking to keep a few time zones on deck.
More refined than most sport watches, more affordable than most luxury ones and more durable than most daily wear watches, the Longines Spirit Zulu ably serves multiple purposes with only minimal sacrifices in any given area.
Get it here: Longines Spirit Zulu Time
“The timeless design of the Rolex Datejust is not only incredibly good looking but also allows the user to dress up or down for any occasion,” says Ben Johnson, head of digital at Milton’s Diamonds. “It looks fantastic with a sweater and jeans, and just as good with a tuxedo.”
While our experts agreed on a Datejust, there are numerous variations, so we ended up split between reference M126233 (at 36 millimeters) and the M126334 (41 millimeters). In the end, the slightly less demure 41 feels more like the classic. It’s a Rolex — it can handle big and bold with aplomb and elegance.
“Both the 36mm and the 41mm are beautiful and timeless,” says Nicholas. But in the constant debate among the watch-loving community, “the undefinable choice is squarely on the prospective owner, like Pepsi and Coke. One thing is for certain: When buying a Rolex or any luxury piece, it would be extremely foolish not to put it on your wrist first before deciding.”
Johnson agrees, but for another reason: “Being one of the most popular luxury watches ever made, it has become one of the most counterfeited watches. This adds to the uncertainty when buying secondhand. Purchasing from a trusted dealer is essential.”
Instantly recognizable and respected, the Datejust is a fine piece that a well-heeled novice can buy without fear of remorse.
Get it here: Rolex Datejust
Counterintuitively, while Cartier’s Tank Must is actually refined, the slightly older design of the Santos reference WSSA0029 looks more like an armored tank, right down to the threadlike steel links with exposed screws. As with the Must, this aviator-intended timepiece comes in numerous iterations, all of which mean business. “The watch was considered revolutionary at the time, when pilot’s watches and men’s wristwatches weren’t the norm,” says Tutunikov.
What should feel brutish with these design foundations is escalated to something romantic. Every single facet showcases the right choice made where it counts.
Get it here: Santos de Cartier
While it’s common for high-end watches to have highly accurate chronographs, El Primero combines precision, classicism and high style with its sexy thrice-gray dials to measure time in tenths of a second. This movement formed the basis for Rolex’s Daytona, but costs about five grand less.
A remarkably stylish analog stopwatch, despite tripping over a couple of its own design choices.
Get it here: Zenith Chronomaster El Primero
This was an easy one, with three watch experts in a row affirming that the Rolex Submariner continues to reign supreme for a reason. “The watch has carved out its own spot in the history of horology,” says Yasavolian. “It was the original James Bond watch. Who doesn’t want to be seen rocking that?”
When you’re renowned for your quality, it becomes a point of pride to live up to it. The Rolex Submariner is waterproof to depths where you’re more likely to malfunction before your watch does. “Over the years, the Submariner has made leaps and bounds in terms of technology and aesthetic,” says Tutunikov, referring to its original groundbreaking 100-meter max depth and the present 300 meters allowed by its 41-millimeter case, “and yet it remains a classic and highly sought-after timepiece.”
This is the Pappy Van Winkle of watches, an unimpeachably refined product whose price is becoming a victim of status-seekers driving it up. For a more practical dive watch, Nicholas recommends the Seiko SRPE93, an amazing dive watch that won’t run more than a few hundred.
Get it here: Rolex Submariner Date 126610LN
This Porsche collaboration with Garmin is pricey for a smartwatch, but cheap in the context of most of this list. Leave it to Porsche to design one so power-efficient you can get 16 days of life out of it. (Granted, it’ll go faster if you use it, but hey, that’s true of Porsche vehicles, too.) Given that it’s water-rated for twice as deep as some of the five-figure steel pieces on here, this computer is an achievement.
A collaboration that neatly addresses the most commonly exasperating features of a smartwatch, particularly one used for sport.
Get it here: Porsche x Garmin Epix 2
Occupying a similarly versatile space as the Orient Bambino 4, the Shinola Mechanic will run you 10x as much, but covers a lot of use cases and still comes across as a steal next to most of the prices on this list. Patrick Burch, owner of men’s goods store Cave + Post Trading Co., goes big on Shinola watches, and nominates The Mechanic across multiple categories for an all-purpose, good-looking accompaniment to most of the outfits you’ll wear throughout the year.
An absolutely classic design that you’d be proud to wear every day of your life.
Get it here: Shinola Mechanic
What’s the real meaning of casual? Is it just cheap and discardable, or is it the relaxation of not checking whether your watch goes with your tuxedo? If it’s the latter, gear up with a Timex Weekender. There are a variety of diameters and strap materials and colors, but we’re sticking to the classics that come with the 38-millimeter so you don’t ever have to take it off. “You can wear it to the gym or a wedding,” says Nicholas. “It works with everything.” Still, you’ll appreciate how easy it is to flip the band to better suit your suit.
Timex is such a workhorse brand that has nevertheless managed to keep its designs stylish between the bookends of classic and funky. With the Weekender you can have both.
Get it here: Timex Weekender
I’m wearing one as I type these words. Shortly after receiving it, I met an acquaintance who showed me her own, excitedly welcoming me to the F-91W fold. It’s hard to say the F-91W has a cult following given that Casio makes 3 million of these watches a year to produce Earth’s most popular watch, but it’s hard to imagine a world where everybody doesn’t own one eventually given their stamina-to-price ratio.
The F-91W is long-lasting with a fortitude that’s not indestructible, but sure can take a punch or a shower. Anyone who has ever wrestled with the egregious setup and sync on most smartwatches will find this a refreshingly straightforward accessory. It’s a marvel of simplicity that does everything you want a watch to do and nothing you won’t need: Clock and date, alarm, stopwatch with laps, nightlight and options for 12- or 24-hour clock.
Mow the lawn, go for a run and don’t think twice about hopping in the shower with this reliable beater still on your wrist. If you live harder than this, Nicholas recommends upgrading to the Casio Duro MDV106, which can dive 200 meters for $69.95 and up.
Get it here: Casio F-91W
On top of my own thorough research, I consulted with watch reviewers and shop owners to find out which watches they’d recommend, then combined their insights with my own personal experiences to compile this list.
What functions will your watch be performing? How much punishment can it take, and of what type? You’re probably not going to wear that Rolex dive watch for a run, nor the straightforward analog face of a fisherman’s watch to hit your splits, and you definitely don’t want to trust your scuba tank time to a daily beater you won with arcade tickets. Figure out what you need it for and choose features accordingly.
While you can wear any watch to any occasion, a dress watch is always going to complement your suit better than a technocentric design, no matter what face your smartwatch uses. Again, you’re better off matching the look of your new watch to its intended occasion.
What good is watchdom’s finest collectible if it yanks out your arm hair every time you turn your wrist? Consider the weight, size and situation of the bezel and crown in terms of what you need to do on a typical day.
When you spend more, you expect reliability, longevity and durability. With watches, it’s also customary to find more precision as the price tag climbs. If your needs don’t require the watch to keep accurate microsecond counts over the course of a decade, you might find a similar style to a luxury piece at a much better price.
Really, don’t be fooled into thinking you need to spend a bundle of money on a wristwatch. While a lifelong timepiece can be a great investment that will never let you (or your great-grandchildren) down, all it has to do is make you happy by functioning and feeling and looking good.
If you found this guide helpful, you may also appreciate our guides to the best sunglasses for men and the best colognes for men.
While watches have only gained more and more fame as investment pieces since the 70s, not all watches appreciate, even within the luxury market. There has to be a desire among the collectors who drive most of the value, paired with scarcity and/or uniqueness.
Watches have gained a big reputation as a collectible the past five years, heating up as a market, but Nicholas cautions you to tread carefully. “During prime COVID, watches were going for crazy money, but prices have been dropping since then by 30, 40%. Everyone woke up with a hangover.”
With demand peaked, luxury brands like Rolex made waiting lists and raised prices by 50% or more. Those lists haven’t subsided, with a Submariner on a two-year waiting list. But in those two years, the craving to collect can subside. People aren’t buying comforts and long-desired wish list items like they were when they were stuck inside with disposable income, and resale/secondary market is accruing the glut.
Investment does remain a viable and sometimes lucrative market, but for any frequent trades, Nicholas says “it’s a game that only rich people can afford to play.” Frequent Rolex customers are entitled to preferential treatment, including skipping the waiting line, leaving them better positioned to take quick advantage of market swings.
Ultimately, you should consider it an investment only in that most watches are buy-it-for-life items that suit your style and can be passed on to someone else. “It shouldn’t be a pure investment,” says Nicholas. “It’s more about enjoyment, return on investment is just a bonus. The watch market is volatile because there aren’t as many collectors as there are for things like cars or wine.”
Mechanical watches are the original type of watch, hailing back to clockwork pocket watches. These personal time pieces were a revolution in the ability to “carry” accurate time with you as opposed to relying on a centrally located steeple clock in town. Funnily enough for an article on men’s wristwatches, the wristwatch was originally intended for women, who did not wear any clothing that could house a pocket watch conveniently.
World War I introduced the first wristwatch for men by necessity, worn on the inside of the wrist so pilots wouldn’t have to let go of their controls. These were pocket watches with lugs welded to them. Most mechanical watches, when fully wound, give you a full 30 to 50 hours of time-telling, though it’s becoming commonplace to have 70 hours. A slower beat rate yields more power for the timepiece, but it’s more expensive to engineer to this spec, so 40ish remains the industry standard.
An automatic watch is simply a mechanical watch that uses movement, but winds itself via a semicircular rotor powered by your arm movement. It doesn’t need to be wound on the crown, but must be worn consistently or it loses time within a day or two. This is because constant motion is required to keep the mainspring wound at sufficient tension.
Quartz watches are modern and most similar to a modern computer circuit. They use a battery to electrify a quartz crystal and the beat movements are measured in hertz. The advantages are numerous: It’s thinner, cheaper to produce, removes the need for as many moving parts and runs for years without needing to be fixed. Analog quartz is effectively a tiny circuit board with very few moving parts for the pinion that moves the hands. Digital quartz has no moving parts, and uses the quartz for an LCD display.
Nicholas says the average case diameter for a man sits on a wrist anywhere from 39 to 42 millimeters in diameter. Women’s watches tend to be 32 to 36 millimeters. But those numbers change with fashion.
As with the best wallets for men, actual band length tends to be one-size fits all. It’s very unlikely to be caught with a watch you can’t wear for the circumference of your wrist. Bands that use holes and buckles in fabric, silicone, mesh, etc., will have enough variation for most size wrists, big or small.
Bands that use links do sometimes require adjustment, however. You may have to add or remove links to perfect the fit, or more likely have a jeweler do it for you. You may want to actually err on a little looser than precision fit, although it depends on the size of the link itself. “The more links, the better,” says Nicholas, explaining that smaller links are more likely to deliver better precision, feel and comfort without jutting out as they bend. The actual number of links depends on the watch style and your wrist size.
The only real concern would be the length of a band that doesn’t use links for its oyster-style snap, in which case you would measure your wrist prior to purchase. If you want to know your wrist size, the guidelines are not as fixed as you’d expect. “Just above the bones” of the radius and ulna are ideal for most people, says Nicholas. “If you wear a watch looser than that, it’s going to be swinging and clunking around all day.”
But that’s not to say you can’t wear it loose. Sometimes a style that surfs your arm just fits with a casual, looser style like the baggier and bulkier styles of the late ’90s.
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